Slaying the Dragon

Day 3 Saturday

North Carolina to Tennesee

Murhpy Carolina was not much to speak off.  We started off the day with the best western breakfast and sore body.  I couldn’t help but keep up my spirits since today we’d be riding the US129 home of the Tail of the Dragon.  This was my destination vacation place all year that I wasn’t able to make it too earlier this season. 312 curves 11 miles and one excited Jake.

Yesterday’s 15 hour ride and 20 hour day did start taking hold soon after leaving the hotel.  We stopped for gas and took the left on US129 that would be leading us to the dragon.  Weather was perfect, chilly morning but temps in the 60s.

First few turns on US129 and I was happy but a little disappointed.  Not really understanding that the dragon’s tail was miles ahead I thought perhaps we were riding just a nice road that was about as much fun as the Blue Ridge Parkway the day before.

Then we crossed a river with a gorgeous dam and took one sharp hairpin turn.  Then looking up the road I realized I was wrong and the dragon was going to be as I imagined, tight, twisty and fun.

We doubled back to take some photos at the dam.  Rather scenic and realizing at this point those opportunities to take photos are few and far between wanted to get some shots of the bike.  Practically jumping out of my skin excited about lay up ahead.

night 1

Night 1

Kittery, ME  to Pittsfield, Ma

Leaving home on an 8 day long motorcycle trip is never an easy feat.  First you want to make sure you have everything and that it all works.  Since this plan was thought up, considered, decided and executed all within about 3 weeks that didn’t work out as planned.

So with one ride with the heated vest, no rides with the new gloves, heated grips, corbin seat, windscreen, saddlebags, topcase and tank bag we started off on a cold chilly afternoon.    The excitement of new equipment and the promise of a great adventure awaiting us.

I had told everyone to meet us for 5:30 but secretly hoped to be on the road no later than 5:35.  Of course in typical fashion I held us up for a few more minutes and the 6pm time originally thought up was executed.

Thankfully Chris decided to ride the first leg with us and from his ride to my house was able to instruct us to bundle up.  Chris doesn’t get cold while ridding so his warning was followed by all but Rachel whom decided her warm weather riding gloves would work just fine this evening.

Our fist 2 hours passed by fairly quickly we were able make it to almost dinner and I had to stop to help Rachel warm up.  Her hands were freezing and to her credit she pushed about 1.5 hours past her comfort point in the chilly 46 degree weather.

After we swapped the heated gloves and got her wired into the heated vest she seemed to really cheer up.  I had to layer up without the heated gear but with dinner shortly approaching her comfort was more important.  Besides my heated grips were keeping pace with keeping my hands warm enough.

Highlight from dinner was the waitress asking if we had just gotten back from a ski trip (we were rather bundled up I suppose). 

Continuing the ride we make it to my folks place for 10pm, temperature a chilly 42 degrees.  Our first few hundred miles in the book and no frost bite.  

We settled in at my parents place for 11:30pm and awaited the trip to begin.  Temperatures in western mass promising to be in the mid-thirties for our departure at 6:30am. 

Western Mass to Virginia day 2 (1st full day)

Full Day 1

Western Mass to Virginia

Waking up Thursday morning we had decided to sip some coffee from my parent’s house and hit the road without eating first.  With the thermometer reading 35 degrees we knew we’d be hard pressed to ride more than an hour or two before we’d need to stop and warm up.  

Riding route 20 at home is always one of my highlights and this ride didn’t disappoint.  The overlooks had that settled fog that you can’t help but feel you lucky to not be trapped in.  Until you descend towards Lebanon, NY but at that time I hadn’t really considered our fate since we were captured in the beauty of the landscape.

We continued to descend looking for the exit at route 22.  At first the fog began light and wispy and before long we were fully engulfed in what felt like a freezing fog.  The temp climbing at this point upwards of 39 degrees.  Still cold, now visibility had dropped to about 5 feet.  We keep pace to the highway and wished the sun would appear sooner so we could shake off the wet and cold. 

About 1.5 hours into morning 1 day 2 of the ride we settled on a stop on the new York state throughway and settled for some coffee and breakfast.  (Starbucks, in New York the first of many).  We reluctantly dressed again for the voyage and could see the fog lifting and the sun emerging.

Onward we pressed into New York state.  Highway riding once again with Virginia being tonight’s destination. 

We continued on the highway without much to note and found ourselves in Penns.  Time for a quick gas stop about 150 miles in.  At this time we stocked up on lip balm and stretched a bit and started to settle into the highway groove.  I accidently took us north instead of south and thankfully Justin put us back on course.  I’m sure I’m not alone in being able to completely screw up directions although the gps is clearly showing the way.

Nothing much to note on the highway expect being in awe of Penns pretty landscape. Longing for roads off the highway but knowing the schedule won’t support anything but a few hundred miles highway travel.   A nice lunch stop at the cracker barrel and were starting to get the feel of carrying our equipment through restaurants and such.  Bags on the bike were full so the tankbag holding my wallet and ipad and gps needed to stay by my side.   Of course the bike has a way to lock the helmets if you’re creative and bring the equipment needed (think just small loop of wire rope) but I had no such devices and leaving my gear to be walked off with wasn’t in my plans.  Everything by our sides we enjoyed our longer than planned lunch. 

Again on the road we found our way into Maryland.  I had no idea we’d be passing through Maryland and in this state it happened for the first time.  A fellow rider 3 lanes away coming the other direction on the highway, lifted his hand out to wave to a fellow biker.  Never in my life have I seen anything like this.  And it happened a few more times as we headed south.  Fantastic.  These guys get it.

Rachel hinted at the thought of a break and I foolishly veered off the highway ready to embrace a stretch break. Figured I’d find gas easy enough.  Sadly that adventure took way too much time.  Finally I found a gas station about 30 minutes off course and suddenly we found ourselves crossing the Potomac and at a beautiful crossing. Sadly no chance to stop and take photo (unfortunately the common theme of this trip).

We continued south dodging road alligators as we rode (rode alligators are tractor trailer tires that have exploded and left debris on the roadway).  Counted about 2 dozen.  Watched Justin just miss getting cut off by a truck with trailer attached.   Thankfully he didn’t really notice it happened and we continued south to Virginia.  We were getting closer the Blue Ridge parkway and what would promise to be filled with more turns then today’s mostly highway adventure.

Just past sunset the temperature had dropped back in to the high 50’s and we decided we’d find a place near the start of the Blue Ridge parkway and settled into a best western. 

Insert Picture.

An exhausting full day of riding, saddle time about 6 hours with total travel time about 11 hours.  Not a bad first day.   Dinner was dull, the dreamed of hot tub non-existent and the so called heated pool a solid 60 degree salt water disappointment.  We were however happy to be on our way and knowing tomorrow would bring Justin’s dream of riding the Blue Ridge a reality.

Day 3 Blue ridge Parkway

Blue Ridge Parkway (500 miles) to Murphy, NC

Day started with hotel breakfast and temp’s in the low 50’s.  Had to start at walmart to obtain a power strip (turns out in this electronic age you need about 6 outlets for chatterbox, cell phones, battery operated heated gear and IPAD.  Power strip in hand we took the 10 minute drive to the start of the blue ridge parkway. 

A quick picture by Justin and we started on our way.  Minutes later we found ourselves in the pack of a deer.  And many squirrels.  Within the first mile we realized we had found a destination ride.  The first few scenes and turns were enough for us to feel right at home on this road.  Knowing another 500 miles lay ahead to get us close to Deal’s Gap.

Even with chiller conditions this road was amazing.  Justin’s post captured it best using the comments we made during the day.  Knowing we had to cover some distance and the blue ridge takes about 2 days to really cover we caught back up with the highway and regretted the decision immediately. Thankfully we knew it would be only a short time until we could be back on Ridge parkway.

Getting back to the blue ridge couldn’t come soon enough.  I couldn’t help but feel we caught the blue ridge on a once in a lifetime day.  The road is clearly marked at 45 mph and has rather sharp turns (think fun on a motorcycle)  and some rather steep climbs.  Therefore, had we met much traffic we’d have been stuck in the 30mph zone and a little frustrated.  Thankfully this wasn’t the case.   At 45 mph to 50mph you are pushing the bike just plenty and the turns just keep piling up. 

Unfortunately another regret of this trip was not having the time to capture more pictures or mounting the go-pro camera to capture some footage.  About 2 hours into our blue ridge riding we had to detour off the highway due to repair.  So we took off in backwoods North Carolina heading into the unknown. 

After taking a rather straight un-eventful road we verified back heading towards the parkway. Immediately taken to a halt behind a truck with North Carolina’s local.  Apparently in the south you drive as slowly as you feel like going.  A perfectly straight road listed at 45 was being navigated at 33 mph by this truck.  Of course no passing lines or opportunities so we settled in and pushed.  In the south you drive at slowly as you feel like it.  At their own pace in their own time as Rachel and Justin put it.

Once we passed this car the road really took on a new characteristic.  Similar to that of the blue ridge turns a plenty.  Thankfully, the people in North Carolina can’t be bothered with listing sharp turns or changing speed limits.  This road was listed at 55mph and I couldn’t keep that pace without slowing up to 45 with the turns being sharp a bit blind.  Really, really fun.  On par with the rest of the riding we had been accomplishing.  I couldn’t help but feel bad about months before driving to Norfolk Naval and thinking these bikes have it tough since there are not curvy roads out this way.  I couldn’t have been more wrong with these roads on the west side of the state.

We figured this being as good as time as any for a lunch break.  Just a few more feet from being back on the parkway.  Lunch in the southern states is always a pleasure and this was no exception at LakeView.  The food was good, cheap and the local’s fun to people watch.  I’m sure we our train of gear and riding clothes we put on a show.    Granted a “Y’all come back now, ya’hear” and saddled back up for the afternoon.

We finally approached  a sign for the blue ridge and we turned back on.  Thinking traffic would pick up we settled back into our 45 mph pace.   Justin in the lead and Rachel and I riding well off the back.   Traffic picked up around 4pm but never enough to slow up our pace.  Perfect riding weather at 60 degrees and as close to the most perfect motorcycle road I had ridden.

Carrying forward in much the same we finally caught up with the sun setting on the parkway.  We had decided at this point that riding the highway was foolish and we’d be better off just pushing to the end of the parkway.  A few picturesque places not caught on film due to time constraints we managed a few shots at key locations.  Sadly these pictures don’t do it justice but again the adventure is what matters not the photos.    Again I regretted not having the go-pro since following Justin at night through tunnels was simply breathtaking with the lights dancing around the tunnels.  Especially the ones with the nice turns.  

What I took from this Road was I’ll be back and I’ll be back with friends and more time to explore and enjoy this road.  Possibly even with a bicycle since the cyclist out this way seemed to be having a good time of it as well. 

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Sadly we covered the complete parkway and had little to show except tired bodies hoping for a nice dinner spot.  We shot some quick photos or the Blue Ridge sign in NC and headed to find some gas and finalize directions to a place nearby Deal’s Gap.  Thankfully Justin had called in a reservation and we had to push forward. 

We left Cherokee casino area and found ourselves in nowhere North Carolina glad the bikes were running well and we had plenty of gas we found Murphy.   Sadly with empty stomachs we seeked our resting place for the night.

Nothing eventful happened on the road to the hotel expect for a pickup cruising past us at about 120 mph.  No cops in sight, nobody slowing him down on this 55mph road and we pushed on keeping with traffic  about 70mph.  Finally arrived in Murphy around 10:30 at night.  A full 15 hour riding day behind us.   Looking forward to some dinner.

With her heavy accent the women at the hotel pointed us to our room.  First she handed us some bike cleaning clothes and a coupin.  Welcome bikers was listed in many places and we knew this was a good place to be.  We asked the hotel where to grab some dinner and what time they’d be serving and she said later than 1 in the morning.  Great we thought.  It was than a mile, the bikes parked with covers for the night surrounded by other bikes we started our walk to get some dinner.  Completely exhausted we wondered into a local place.

Justin video to follow pretty well explains everything about our dinner location.  Just past midnight we settled into bed exhausted.  Excited tomorrow brings on deal’s gap and my destination location since last winter.  Secretly hoping it would be as good as the Blue Ridge but wondering how that could even be possible.

Tenseness to Texas

Day 4 Sunday

Sadly Day 4 was rather uneventful.  The day cleared us through Arkansas, a quick lunch in Arephlidea and a trip to Texarkana.  Fun to say but really kinda uneventful in riding stories.  Just more highway.

Points of note are the girls at the gas station telling Rachel her riding helmet was “realll purty” and passing over the Mississippi river bridge. But sadly not much else. 

We didn’t come close to making it to Pine Bluff so a visit to the lake was out and being 100’s of miles off our schedule thoughts of off highway riding where not possible.  We did however decide that Austin wasn’t going to happen and in hindsight that worked out since they got a few inches of rain that day and riding in a downpour is less than enjoyable on the bike.   Rachel’s dad was kind enough to give us the heads up and we Austin was finalized as not happenin.

Once we agreed on heading just west instead south we attempted to ride some backroads in texas & ArKansas but fiddling with the gps proved useless since it was taking us to missisippi instead of texas.  \

Also I missed a turn and we drove about 40 minutes out of the way.

We mapped out a road that brought us further west towards New Mexico and went with it.  Finally settled on the Hampton Inn in Paris, Tx.  Tried to get some local fair for dinner but settled on pizza from dominos and off to bed we went.  This room had a tub which actually worked (unlike the one from the night before).  Prices a bit high (I think said and done higher than grand canyon) but the soak was nice and best of all we avoided the rain.

Since this was Sunday Night Breaking bad season finally was on the TV and at least we were able to finish up the series we’d been following this year.  (Rachel slept through it)

Day 5: Jason Aldean’s Amirillo Sky

Paris, Tx to New Mexcio

Waking up in texas was difficult.  We didn’t make it to Austin,  failed our attempt at finding an off-highway road and still had many, many miles to cover for the trip and both realized my pre-planned schedule was falling flat on its face.  Glad to have the bike in the awning at this Hampton inn we grabbed a nice free breakfast and started west again. 

Roads in texas are huge.  Literally if you know the mass pike, 95, 87 or the like out east or the I-40 west the backroads in texas are about the same size.  Break down lines the size of roads out east.  Texas was cloudy when we started out and we cleared about a dozen towns to our first gas stop.

At our first gas stop of the day I was surprised to see a cop car (actually since the rodes are marked at 70mph (including side rodes) whom turned around to come visit with me.  Again me questioning what I could possibly be doing wrong in texas expect not riding a Harley.  The cop stopped and asked “hey what year that bike”.  I said an 2007 and he said he had graduated high school in 87 and that bike was the hottest ticket around back then.  I said yeah part of the reason I got the red/while/blue one was the colors from 83.  It was nice to be recognized on that interceptor once again and the 25^th anniversary addition it is.

Funny part about texas is the number of people in the towns.  Numbers like 30 are common and numbers greater than 50 are uncommon.  A bit of a change from east coast townships.  Further you don’t see a lot of signs out east about religion and in Texas about every 5^th billboard is something about god, your soul or magic. 

Anybody that knows me recognizes my enjoyment of country music.  Traveling in texas we had the pleasure of passing right through Amirillo on the I-40.  Not notable to most but George Strait sang “Amirillo by morning”, “Baby Blue”, Jason Aldean Sang “Amirillo Sky”,  Little texas sang “Ami’s back in Austin” and the “bluest skies in Texas”.  So of course my excitement of seeing Amirillo was second to none.  And although we didn’t get to tour the city or really feel the out the city people I was still beaming from the opportunity to see this place in Action.  If you’ve never been think of Amirillo as Manchester, NH or Albany, NY.  Big, full of cars and lots of billboards on the highway.  I wished for more time in Amirillo and hopefully sometime might have to make it happen.  And a Rodeo in Austin might be just the next adventure I’d need to see in person.  Probably won’t be on the bike however since texas is not really a bike friendly state, I’d say a lifted truck would be a better means of travel there.

Sadly after a few minutes in Amirillo and a 550 mile schedule to keep we headed west until dinner called and we settled a few miles (probably 40 out of somerset, NM) at a K-Bob’s.   Another best western, bike parked under awning with the slightly too small cover and Rachel and I fast to sleep.  Not really too eventful.

The one major regret I have for Texas was not stopping at a steakhouse renewed for its 72 ounce free steak.  Free in the way that you’d have to eat the whole thing in one sitting.  Rachel and I must have counted 15 signs along the highways that advertised this steak.  Schedule prevailing and Austin being a miss we passed it by both questions what a 72 ounce steak looks like anyhow.

Day 6 New Mexico to Grand Canyon, AZ

Waking up in New Mexico it was tough to get excited.  Today would be mostly highway with no real off highway plans.  Only excitement could be the road to the canyon but that looked straight on the map.  Excited that the grand canyon lay ahead but frustrated that the I-40 wasn’t really anything to get excited about.  We had attempted to ride some of old route 66 but was informed that it no longer exists.   Really it’s just the towns off I-40 and not really a separate road at all.  Unfortunate I guess.

We traveled the I-40 with no real excitement expect the traffic jam in alberuguque.  Really traffic was  at a full stop and we were trying to stale under overpasses without much luck.  Thankfully I was able to call Justin and nick with the chatterbox and break up the traffic jam monotony .   Glad to have the chance to chat with them on the bike. 

Next up we stopped at the continental divide.  Where water that falls on either side runs to that side ocean.  Funny how New Mexico is the divide but a few pictures later were where happy to be off the bike.  

A side note:  At this time in the trip and I’m not sure why my knees started to burn something fierce.  I’ve had knee problems off and on last year and was pretty much told it was a muscle issue and had seemed to clear up.  Sadly that is not the case and sore knees are pretty miserable on the bike.  At the continental divide I all but threw Rachel off the bike so I could get up and walk around.  Straightening my legs more on the bike seemed to help but a burning my knees still remains.  I surely missed the twisted roads of NC where you couldn’t stay in on position to be ready for turns.

As we continued west and higher in elevation we started to realize why people freeze to death in the desert.  At first it was just chilly 68 degrees and we continued west.  Then upon finding the exit for the Grand Canyon the cold started to take hold and stopped at the first gas station we could find.  At this time we learned the real meaning of the “ELK” signs but still think jakalups makes more sense. I’ll try to get a imagine from the internet.

We pulled all our cold riding gear out again and suited up.  Rachel dragging her feet again and a fun conversation about snakes, elks and wildlife in the area and we headed north.  The gas station worked warned us of elks on the roadway especially in the dips in the rode so we proceeded with caution.  Rachel swears she saw an elk raise its head on the side of the road but I have my doubts.

Finally upon seeing the temperature drop to around 42 degrees we passed the grand canyon airport.  The night was clear and the stars and moon amazing but it was cold.  Even at 7pm at night it was cold.  Nothing like the blistering heat the traffic jam had been during that day.

We decided it made more sense to look for the hotel at the canyon seeing how anything else would bring us would add about 100 miles to the trip. (canyon is 50 miles north of I-40, and the towns are about the same distance).  We settled into the pricey best western at Grand  Canyon.

Stopping for the night at the best western unfortunately I wasn’t offered the ability to park the bike under the awning and the giving a map of the hotel compound and new I’d rather have the bike in eye sight from the hotel room.  Best western here is huge.  The gift shop and foundations and such help to justify the price.  Really though knowing they had a hottub for guests was enough to convince Rachel and I we had made the correct choice.

The hot tub felt amazing and we retired to bed with the bike in sight from the window.   Sadly sleep wasn’t as restful as I had hopped but we survived just the same. 

550 miles in the books and mostly highway makes a long, long day.  Although my knees were hurting all the time now knowing the trip was coming to an end was sad just the same.   It was this night we decided vegas was a doable idea.